Setting the right weight loss goals is essential for healthy weight reduction. Here’s what to keep in mind while setting your weight loss goals.
While losing weight might be on your mind constantly, it might not work until and unless you set weight loss goals. Making sure you have healthy and effective weight loss goals is the key to making your fitness journey a success. But if you are wondering why it never works out, know what you might be doing wrong!
According to the National Heart Lung and Blood Institute, setting the right goals is the first essential step that needs to be taken if you want to lose weight. Health Shots got in touch with Dr Ankit Potdar, Consultant – General Surgery, SRV Hospitals, who tells us how to set medically approved weight loss goals that keep us healthy, and in shape.
What does it mean to set weight loss goals?
Setting targets to lose weight means deciding clear and measurable goals to reach a certain weight by a set time. “These goals help guide and motivate you as you progress. Achievable goals take into account your health, daily routines, and lasting changes,” says Dr Potdar. They help you stay focused, track your progress, and build good habits for your health in the long run.
Weight loss goal should aim for a steady and lasting reduction in weight. Dr Potdar tells you what to keep in mind while setting these goals.
Setting realistic fitness goals can help with weight loss. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
1. Focus on balanced weight loss
Instead of just concentrating on reducing weight, set goals that promote good habits, like regular exercise and eating a balanced diet.
2. Go slow
It’s recommended to target a gradual weight loss of about one to two pounds each week, as big changes can be hard to stick to and might not be good for your health.
3. Focusing on overall health
Yes, weight loss is the main goal but that doesn’t mean that you should deprive your body of any nutrients or exercise too much, or do anything can affect your overall health. It is very important to not forget your health and well-being while trying to lose weight. This is the key for effective weight management.
4. Understand weight loss objective
First step towards setting a sensible monthly weight loss goal starts with understanding your overall weight loss objective. It’s important to take a gradual like weight loss of 0.5-1 kg weekly, or around 2-4 kgs each month. Think about factors like your current weight, metabolism, and how active you are.
5. Divide and conquer
To achieve lasting results, divide your monthly goals into smaller weekly targets that are easier to reach. Also, focus on building a healthy routine with regular exercise and a balanced diet.
6. Regular checks
It is essential that you regularly check in on your goals and tweak them as needed based on how you’re doing and how you feel. Knowing your body can help you give better weight loss results.
What is the right amount of weight to lose in a month?
Well! This question is rather important as the right answer will help in weight management as well. “A healthy and steady weight loss goal is often seen as losing 0.5 to 1 kilos every week, or around 2-4 kilos each month. Rapid weight loss can lead to issues like muscle loss and other health concerns,” says Dr Potdar.
When deciding how much weight to aim for, think about factors like your starting weight, how your body works (your metabolism), and your overall health. Making small and regular changes to your diet and activity levels is key to long-term success and maintaining good health.
How do weight loss medication work in this goal setting?
Usually, weight loss medications work by changing how your body metabolises food, controls hunger, or absorbs nutrients. “They can help increase calorie burn, make you feel fuller, and manage hunger better. Before considering these medications as part of your weight loss plan, it’s crucial to consult a healthcare professional to ensure they align with your weight loss and health objectives,” explains Dr Potdar. For lasting results, view medications as just one part of a comprehensive approach that includes regular exercise, a balanced diet, and changes in behaviour.
Weight loss medication helps in controlling hunger. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
What are the tools that will help you set and track your weight loss?
Several tools can assist individuals in setting and tracking their weight loss goals effectively:
1. Digital Apps and fitness trackers
There are various apps available online offering calorie tracking, exercise logging, and progress charts. You can also invest in a fitness tracker that helps you monitor activity levels, heart rate, and calories burned, providing insights into daily physical activity.
2. Food journals
Maintaining a written or digital log of food intake helps individuals become more aware of eating habits and can highlight areas for improvement.
3. Weight scales
Digital scales can provide accurate weight measurements, and some advanced models even calculate body fat percentage.
4. Measuring tape
Tracking body measurements, such as waist circumference, can offer additional insights into physical changes beyond weight.
5. Online communities
Various weight loss forums offer support, advise, and motivation from like-minded individuals.
Utilising these tools collectively can enhance accountability, motivation, and the likelihood of achieving weight loss goals.
The Christmas noise has eased. But New Year festivities are just days away, and the racket returns. Well, at least we have a few days to search for our marbles, which is huge for folks in our neck of the woods. Let’s roast marshmallows and chat by the fire…
You might say, ‘I guess I have no choice, Bill.’ Actually, you do. You can choose to do nothing about your circumstances…’
When you produce an emotional and mental health site, encouraging readers to create and achieve resolutions is the thing to do this time of year.
Then it’s on to inspiring and motivating them to work hard in their pursuit of insight and healing.
Obligation handled.
Sure, I want those things for you. I want them for me, though I’m not especially big on resolutions. But the faux “Go get ‘em, tiger.” bit isn’t my style.
The chat
I’ll go first…
I’ve been on this planet for 69 years, and I’ve danced with anxiety and mood symptoms for the vast majority of them. Even cut a rug with alcohol dependence and recovery..
There were times I was so stunned and lost that not only did I not know how to get out of the woods, I didn’t know it was even possible – so I’d drop the fantasy and move on.
Have you felt that way? Maybe now?
Keep in mind, I wouldn’t have the right to address your pain if I hadn’t lived with it for decades. But I have, so I will.
No matter how horrible and hopeless you perceive your circumstances to be, they’re manageable – and you can carry on with a meaningful, productive, and powerful life. Don’t tell me you can’t.
And what does it take?
Well, portions of acceptance, vision, curiosity, creativity, counsel, empathy, resolve, resilience, insight, and love. And with a few exceptions, anything else you can muster.
Absolutely, you can do it.
You might say, “Well, I guess I have no choice, Bill.” Actually, you do. You can choose to do nothing about your circumstances and watch your life wither away like that once beautiful and vital plant nobody watered.
Bluntly, a suicide attempt isn’t always a physical act.
Don’t push yourself to the edge. Roll up your sleeves and get after what you want.
Now it’s your turn, I’m listening.
Wishing you the very best for the new year. And thank you for being a Chipur reader throughout 2023.
Bill
Would you like to read some Chipur emotional and mental health info and inspiration articles? Go ahead, peruse the titles.
Peppers come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors. From mild, sweet bell peppers to fiery, spicy chili peppers, there is a pepper to fit everyone’s taste. If you’re looking to add a little something extra to your garden, consider growing some peppers!
Sweet peppers and hot peppers can be grown from seeds or from seedlings. Peppers are most easily grown in the garden from seedlings started at home indoors or from young plants purchased at the garden center.
Starting peppers from seed will allow you to make the widest selection of varieties. It is also the least expensive way to grow peppers.
Related articles:
Pepper seedlings
Start pepper seeds indoors about 10 weeks before the date you intend to set peppers into the garden. Don’t rush peppers into the garden. Transplant pepper seedlings into the garden 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost in spring, after the soil temperature has warmed to at least 65°F (18°C).
Peppers mature in 60 to 95 days depending on the variety.
Here is your complete guide to growing both sweet and hot peppers. For a more thorough look at growing chili peppers be sure to read How to Plant, Grow, and Harvest Hot Peppers.
Pepper planting details
Plant peppers where they will succeed. Peppers want full sun and deep, sandy, or gravelly loam–meaning rich and well-drained. Add plenty of aged-compost and organic matter to planting beds in advance of transplanting peppers. A pH of 5.5 to 7.0 is optimal. Raised beds will give peppers the soil warmth they need–and black plastic sheeting or mulch will help warm the soil. Magnesium helps peppers develop fruits; work a dusting of Epsom salts or Dolomitic limestone into the bed just before planting. Side-dress peppers with compost when flowers appear and again three weeks later.
Sowing depth: ¼ inch (6mm)
Space between plants: 18-24 inches
Days to sprout: 10
Days to harvest: 65-95
Storage period: 10 weeks
Seeds per 100-row feet: 1 packet (75 plants)
Yield per 100-row feet: 50 pounds
Starting pepper seeds indoors
Start pepper seed indoors 7 to 10 weeks before the date you intend to set seedlings into the garden.
Sow 3 to 4 seeds in a pot or across flats.
Sow seed ¼ to ½ inch (7-13 mm) deep.
Germination soil temperature is 75-95°F (24-35°C); the optimum soil temperature for germinating seed is 85°F (29°C).
Germination takes 7 to 10 days at 85°F (29°C) or warmer.
Keep the seed starting mix just moist until seedlings emerge.
Clip away the weaker seedlings once the strongest seedling is about 2 inches (5 cm) tall.
Seedlings started indoors should be kept under grow light or in a sunny window after germination. Keep the indoor nighttime temperature above 62°F (17°C).
Water to keep the seed starting mix from drying.
Transfer seedlings to a larger container once they are 2 to 4 inches (5-10 cm) tall; be sure that seedlings have sufficient room for root growth. This process is called “potting up.” Continue to pot up seedlings as they outgrow containers—until they are transplanted into the garden or a very large container.
Pepper seedlings in 4-inch pots available at the garden center will be about 8 to 10 weeks old.
If you grow peppers from purchased seedlings, choose the healthiest, strongest young plants. Look for foliage that is dark green and unblemished.
Choose plants that are well-branched, dense, and compact. Avoid plants that are tall and leggy.
Avoid pepper plants with flowers or fruits unless it is mid-to-late season. Plants with flowers and fruits will be slow to establish after transplanting.
Plant transplants with strong stems and dark green leaves. Watch out for leggy or spindly plants; they may not have had enough light getting started. Avoid pepper seedlings with blossoms or fruit. Pepper seedlings need to conserve their strength while they develop roots. The root system of a pepper seedling is not strong enough to support flowers and fruit while it is getting started in life. When you buy starts at the garden center, look for plants with stout stems, dark green leaves, no flowers or fruit, and no blemishes. These plants are the healthiest.
Pepper seedlings ready for transplanting
When to plant pepper seedlings outdoors
Don’t rush peppers into the garden; don’t plant peppers at the same time you plant tomatoes. Wait! Nighttime temperatures should be above 60°F and never fall below 55°F. The soil temperature should be 65°F or greater in the morning before you transplant peppers into the garden.
Set plants out when the soil temperature is 60°F to 70°F is better. Do not rush peppers into the garden until the soil is warm. They will not do well if the soil is cool. You can warm the garden bed by covering the ground with black plastic mulch or sheeting for two weeks before transplanting. If the weather is not settled, peppers will benefit from the protection of floating row covers–this will keep the heat in and the bugs out. Keep peppers covered until daytime temperatures average in the mid-80°sF.
Harden off pepper starts before transplanting them into the garden. Put seedlings in a warm, sheltered place outdoors for a few hours each day to harden them off; do this for 10 days before transplanting. Don’t transplant peppers out until overnight temperatures are greater than 60°F; if your peppers are in the garden sooner be sure to cover them with a floating row cover.
Give peppers a good boost at planting time. At the bottom of the planting hole add a handful of compost along with a teaspoon of 5-10-10 (or like percentages) fertilizer mixed with some soil as a buffer between the new roots and fertilizer. Set peppers in a hole about six to eight inches deep and space plants about 15 inches apart–so that the leaves just touch at maturity.
Pepper seedling planting dates
Plant pepper seedlings in the garden 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost in spring. Start pepper seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before setting transplants in the garden. Don’t set out pepper seedlings until the average night temperatures are 55°F (13°C).
You can set pepper seedlings in the garden earlier if they are protected from the cold by a plastic tunnel or other season-extending devices.
(These dates are for the Northern Hemisphere)
Average date of the last frost
Planting dates
Jan. 30
Feb. 1-Apr. 1
Feb. 8
Feb. 15-Apr. 15
Feb. 18
Mar. 1-May 1
Feb. 28
Mar. 15-May 1
Mar. 10
Apr. 1-June 1
Mar. 20
Apr. 10-June 1
Mar. 30
Apr. 15-June 1
Apr. 10
May 1-June 1
Apr. 20
May 10-June 1
Apr. 30
May 15-June 10
May 10
May 20-June 10
May 20
May 25-June 15
May 30
June 1-15
June 10
Peppers temperature sensitivity
Peppers drop blossoms when temperatures exceed 90°F. Peppers are particularly sensitive to temperature at flowering time. There will be poor fruit set if nighttime temperatures fall below 55°F or rise above 75°F. Peppers will drop their blossoms if daytime temperatures rise above 90°F. And if the fruit has already set, these same temperatures will delay fruit development. In very warm summer regions, planting peppers where they will be shaded during the day is the best course.
Sweet and hot peppers grow best in air temperatures 65° to 80°F.
Planting peppers outdoors
Peppers prefer deep, aged-compost–rich soil. If your soil is heavy with clay, grow peppers in a raised bed, adding loam and sand. Peppers grow best in sandy loam that is well-drained and fortified with a lot of organic matter such as aged compost. Plant peppers in full sun. Keep the soil evenly moist from flowering through harvest.
Growing peppers in your native soil: add at least 2 inches of aged compost across the planting bed and sprinkle with 5-10-10 organic fertilizers, then turn the soil to at least 18 inches deep. (Soil that is too rich with nitrogen will produce plants with luscious foliage but few flowers and fruit.)
Transplant peppers into the garden 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost in spring when the soil temperature has risen to at least 65°F (18°C).
Young peppers transplanted should be 4 to 6 inches (10-15cm) tall.
Plants started indoors should be acclimatized to outdoor temperatures before transplants. Set plants outdoors for a few hours each day before transplanting them to the garden.
Sweet and hot peppers grow best in air temperatures of 65° to 80°F (18-26°C).
. The ideal temperature for sweet peppers is a daytime temperature of around 75°F (24°C).
and a nighttime temperature around 62°F (172°C).
Grow peppers in full sun. Peppers should get 8 hours of sun each day.
Plant peppers in soil rich in organic matter. Work aged-garden-compost or commercial organic planting mix into beds prior to planting.
The soil should be moisture-retentive but well-draining. Slightly sandy or loamy soil is best.
Pre-warm the soil before transplanting by placing black plastic over the planting bed for two weeks prior to transplanting peppers. The plastic will transfer solar heat to the soil.
Set transplants in the garden at the same depth they were growing in the container. Do not plant deeper; the buried stem may rot.
Peppers prefer a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.8.
Avoid planting peppers where another nightshade (Solanaceae) family crop has grown recently—tomatoes, potatoes, and eggplants. These crops can be attacked by the same pests and diseases.
Pepper transplanting tips
Feed peppers at transplant time. Dig a hole about 6 inches deep, add a 2-inch layer of aged compost and a handful of 5-10-10 organic fertilizer—mix this well at the bottom of the hole. Then set the plant in the hole.
Adding rock phosphate to the bottom of the planting hole at transplant time will help prevent blossom end rot.
Set peppers seedlings in the transplant hole slightly deeper than the soil level. If your seedling is in a peat pot be sure to bury the entire pot; peat pot material left above the soil level will act as a wick drawing water from the plants and may kill them. Heal in your transplants.
Spacing pepper plants
Peppers should be closely spaced. The leaves of mature pepper plants should touch each other. Set bell peppers 18 inches apart and hot peppers 12 inches apart.
Space pepper plants 18 to 24 inches (45-61cm) apart in each direction.
Space rows 24 to 36 inches (61-91cm) apart.
Pepper companion plants
Plant peppers where they will be shaded by taller plants later in the summer.
Peppers can share space with cabbage and onions. Carrots are a companion that is said to enhance the growth of peppers.
Peppers seem to grow well when planted near cabbage, onions, carrots, basil, parsley, and tomatoes.
Container growing peppers
Peppers can be grown in pots or containers that are at least 12 inches (30cm) wide and 8 to 14 inches deep. For more about growing peppers in pots and containers read 7 Tips for Growing Peppers in Pots.
Plant peppers in a commercial potting mix.
Choose a container with holes in the bottom for easy drainage.
Keep the soil evenly moist.
Side-dress plants with compost tea or dilute fish emulsion every two weeks through the growing season.
In larger containers, set plants on 12-inch (30cm) centers.
Good Products for Growing Your Garden
Young pepper plants
Watering peppers
Water peppers deeply to encourage deep-root development. Too little water can result in bitter-tasting peppers. Peppers want even, moderate moisture around their roots. A gallon of water–about an inch–per plant once or twice a week applied slowly so that the moisture seeps to the roots is best. Avoid overhead watering especially when peppers are in bloom, overhead water will wash away pollen and any chance of fruiting. Be careful not to overwater’ overwatering will cut off the supply of oxygen to pepper roots.
Keep the soil evenly moist, not too wet, and not too dry. A deep watering once a week will equal about 1 inch of rainfall. The critical time for watering is from flowering through harvest. Water stress can cause buds and blossoms to drop (so can cold temperatures).
Keep peppers evenly moist but not wet particularly when blossoms appear and fruit begins to form.
Soil that goes too dry can result in flower drop
Feeding peppers
Feed peppers with manure or compost tea. Pale leaves and slow growth are signs your peppers need a boost. Peppers are heavy feeders so a side-dressing of manure or compost tea a few times during the growing season is a plus. Steep a sockful (an old gym sock will do) of compost or manure in a pail of water until the water turns the color of tea. Feed the plants by watering them at the base of the stem. If brewing a manure tea is out of the question, side-dress with a teaspoon of commercial fertilizer, 5-10-10 sprinkled around the plant’s drip line, and scratched gently into the soil. The first side-dressing should come at blossom time, about a month after transplanting to the garden. Add a second side-dressing about a month after flowering when the first fruits have developed.
Peppers use nitrogen for sturdy stems and foliage, phosphorus for fruit production, and potassium for strong roots. About 12 weeks after transplanting or when blossoming starts, peppers will need additional nutrients (remember you fed them in the planting hole at transplant time—see above). At blossom time, pull back the mulch and side-dress plants with a sprinkling of 5-10-10 organic fertilizer and a half-handful of bonemeal around the drip line. Carefully turn the fertilizer into the soil. Repeat this feeding when fruits are about 1 inch long.
Peppers produce a lot of flowers but few fruits need a shot of magnesium. Spray your plants with a solution of Epsom salts when blossoming begins. Mix 2 teaspoons of Epsom salts in a quart of warm water and spray it on the leaves and blossoms; repeat every 2 weeks.
Add aged compost to planting beds before planting and again at midseason. Aged compost will feed the soil and act as a mulch to stem soil moisture evaporation.
Plastic mulch can improve pepper growth by reducing weeding and watering.
Caring for peppers
Early in the season protect young plants from cold and pest insects by covering the growing bed with a floating row cover. When the peppers begin to blossom, remove the cover so that bees and other insects can pollinate the plants. (You can also cover young plants with cloches or plastic milk jugs.)
Once soil and nighttime temperatures have warmed and summer heat comes, mulch around pepper plants with a finely-shredded organic mulch such as a mixture of grass clippings and straw. Mulch will retain soil moisture and keep the humidity high around plants (remember, peppers are tropical plants and love humidity). Place the mulch at least an inch or two from the stem and as much as 6 inches deep out to the drip line.
Stake or cage peppers heavy with fruit (it’s easier to set the cage or stake at planting time). Peppers have brittle stems and branches. Use elastic plastic tape to tie plants to stakes.
Temperatures greater than 90°F can cause buds and blossoms to drop, particularly when the air is dry. Where summers are very hot put shade-cloth frames in place to protect peppers or plant on the north side of taller plants such as tomatoes or corn that can offer shade.
Early in the season pick the first blossoms or set of fruits to encourage the plant to keep bearing and grow larger fruits later in the season.
Keep planting beds well-weeded to avoid competition.
Peppers are shallow-rooted, so cultivate around peppers with care.
Mulch around peppers with aged compost or straw to keep soil temperature and moisture even.
Plastic mulch can improve pepper yields. Organic compost mulches will reduce weeding and watering, but not fruit yields.
Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers which will create large leafy plants with few or no fruits.
Feed plants compost tea or water with a dilute fish emulsion solution every 10 days.
Support pepper plants with a stake or cage; plants heavy with fruit can break or topple. Pepper branches are brittle and can easily break.
High temperatures and wind can cause flowers to drop and plants not to set fruit.
Mulching peppers
Mulching peppers with straw or grass clippings around plants. A thick mulch will stop weeds from growing and keep moisture in the soil when the weather gets hot. Use hay, straw, leaves, or grass clippings to mulch peppers. Organic mulches decompose and feed the soil and earthworms below. Make sure that the mulch you put down does not contain flowers or seeds; no sense in encouraging weed growth this season or next. If you put down a black plastic mulch to warm the soil early on, you can lift that once the soil has warmed and use the organic mulch in its place.
Weeding peppers
Keep weeds away from peppers. Weeds compete with peppers and other crops for the same space, water, and nutrients. Regular weeding will keep weeds from getting a foothold in the garden. Avoid damaging roots by gently hand-pulling weeds. Most young weed roots will not reach more than an inch deep into the soil. Avoid deep cultivation which can harm crop roots.
Peppers can be attacked by aphids, pepper maggots, pepper weevils, tomato hornworms, Colorado potato beetles, leaf miners, flea beetles, and corn borers. Control these pest insects with insecticides like Bt for the caterpillars and pyrethrum for the others. Hot pepper spray will also repel these pests: combine a handful of hot peppers, several cloves of garlic, a tablespoon of non-detergent soap, and three cups of lukewarm water to make the spray.
Pepper pests
Peppers can be attacked by aphids, cutworms, flea beetles, and hornworms.
Discourage cutworms by placing a collar around each transplant at the time of planting.
Handpick hornworms off of plants. Drop them into a can of soapy water.
Flea beetles and aphids can be partially controlled by hosing them off the plants and pinching out infested foliage.
Pepper diseases
Keep the garden weed-free to slow down diseases and pest insect populations. Weeds can also spread fungi and viruses that harbor insect diseases.
Peppers are susceptible to rot, blossom end rot, anthracnose, tobacco mosaic virus, bacterial spot, and mildew.
Plant disease-resistant varieties. Seed packets and plant labels will note disease resistance.
Keep the garden clean and free of weeds where pests and diseases can shelter.
Remove infected plants before a disease can spread.
If you smoke, wash your hands before working with the plants to avoid spreading the tobacco mosaic virus.
Start pepper seed indoors 7 to 10 weeks before the date you intend to set seedlings into the garden.
Sow 3 to 4 seeds in a pot or across flats.
Sow seed ¼ to ½ inch (7-13 mm) deep.
Germination soil temperature is 75-95°F (24-35°C); the optimum soil temperature for germinating seed is 85°F (29°C).
Germination takes 7 to 10 days at 85°F (29°C) or warmer.
Pulling a pepper away from the plant can cause a branch to break or can pull the plant out of the soil. Use a garden clipper to harvest peppers.
Harvesting peppers
Sweet bell peppers mature in 60 to 70 days. Sweet peppers can be harvested and used before they mature, or they can be left on the plant until they reach full size and ripen to a deep red color. Hot peppers are ready any time they are usable size.
Sweet peppers, like cucumbers, can be harvested when immature, but allowing the pepper to ripen on the vine improves quality. The flavor does not truly develop until maturity. However, if you pick peppers throughout the season, the plants will continue to produce. Tip: leave some peppers on each plant to ripen and harvest; pick others throughout the season when they reach table size.
Most sweet and hot peppers require about 70 days from transplanting until the first fruits are ready. From the start of harvest, peppers can take another 3 to 4 weeks to reach full maturity–that is to turn their mature color–usually red, but sometimes yellow or orange. Keep in mind that the cooler your growing season, the more time must be added for peppers to mature.
Cut peppers off the plant, don’t pull them. Use a sharp knife, scissors, or shears to cut peppers away from the stem. Pulling peppers away from the plant can result in broken stems and even uprooted plants. Leave about an inch of the stem with the pepper at harvest.
Peppers will continue to ripen for a few days if left on the kitchen counter.
Harvesting sweet bell peppers
Peppers are ready for harvest in 60 to 95 days after sowing
Peppers mature from green to red as the seeds inside mature.
Fruit color change can be slow when the weather is not consistently warm.
Sweet peppers become sweeter as they ripen and turn color.
Cut peppers off the vine with a garden shear or scissors; don’t pull them.
Leave a short amount of stem attached to the pepper at harvest time.
Peppers will continue to change color and ripen after harvest if placed in a warm spot out of direct sunlight.
Don’t store peppers in plastic bags or wrap or in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator. Try your best to use them the day you harvest them.
Peppers can be stored in a cool, moist place for 2 to 3 weeks.
Peppers can be refrigerated for up to 10 days; place them in a plastic bag to avoid cold burn.
Blanched peppers can be stored in the freezer for 4 to 6 months.
Peppers can be dried or pickled whole or in pieces.
Be careful when handling hot peppers. They contain a compound called capsaicin which is concentrated in the veins, ribs, and seeds. Capsaicin can burn your eyes, nose, or mouth. Washed your hands thoroughly after handling hot
Sweet bell pepper
Sweet bell pepper varieties to grow
Sweet peppers vary in shape and color and include the slender banana pepper; the short, round cherry pepper; the small bright-red, heart-shaped pimiento; the multi-colored Italian frying pepper; and the blocky green to yellow to orange to red bell pepper. Sweet peppers can be eaten raw, cooked, or pickled. Not all sweet pepper varieties are mildly flavored; some can be spicy and hot.
Hot peppers–also called chili peppers–vary in shape and color and include the bell-shaped pepper, the heart-shaped pimiento, the short and long podded yellow wax, the conical-shaped jalapeño, and the cayenne. Peppers easily cross-pollinate there are thousands of different hot peppers.
Hot peppers are rated by their heat–called Scoville heat units (SHU). The greater the number of units on the Scoville scale the hotter the pepper. Here are several hot pepper varieties starting with the hottest (all of these will cause most people discomfort when eaten):
‘Bhut Jolokia’ (also called ‘Ghost Pepper’): 1,001,304 SHU (100days)
under-eye pigmentation, under-eye dark circles, pigmentation, home remedies for pigmentation, home remedies for under-eye pigmentation, how to get rid of pigmentation, pigmentation under eyes, how to remove dark circles under eyes, skincare, dark under eyes, under eyes, healthshots
As you age, you may observe noticeable changes in your skin colour. You may witness some dark spots, patches, or under-eye circles. While these circles can indicate fatigue, dehydration, and insufficient sleep, they might also stem from hyperpigmentation. Under eye pigmentation involves an excess of darker pigment than the surrounding skin. Although they aren’t typically a cause for concern, you may want to lighten their appearance. Here are some effective home remedies for addressing under-eye pigmentation.
What causes pigmentation?
Pigmentation is primarily caused by an increased production of melanin in the skin. It causes skin discolouration, leaving dark spots and patches on the skin. Sun exposure is a common cause of skin pigmentation. When your skin is exposed to sunlight or ultraviolet (UV) radiation, your body produces melanin to defend itself against the harmful rays. This may make the skin more pigmented. Apart from this, hormonal changes, genetics, and certain medication can also increase the risk of pigmentation. Imbalances in melanin production may lead to conditions like hyperpigmentation (excess pigment) or hypopigmentation (insufficient pigment), resulting in discolouration.
5 home remedies for under eye pigmentation
1. Apple cider vinegar (ACV)
Apple cider vinegar is rich in anti-bacterial and antifungal properties, which are extremely beneficial for removing spots and patches. Moreover, ACV contains malic acid, which decreases melanin production and helps control the appearance of brown spots and hyperpigmentation. ACV also exfoliates your skin, giving you a brighter skin tone.
Apple cider vinegar has so many benefits for your skin. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
How to apply: Mix 2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar with 1 tablespoon of gram flour together. Now add 1 tablespoon of honey to it and mix it properly. Apply this mixture on the freckles visible under the eyes. Now, leave it on for 10 minutes, massage the dry mask for 2 to 3 minutes, and then wash your face
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2. Mulethi (licorice)
Mulethi is a popular remedy in Ayurveda. A 2013 study published by the National Library of Medicine found that it has anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, and anti-ageing properties that are known to be beneficial for reducing wrinkles and fine lines. It also helps reduce the symptoms of skin conditions like pigmentation, and preventing sun damage. It can also control acne and enhance skin complexion.
How to apply: To prepare a smooth paste, mix licorice powder with turmeric. Now add rose water to it to make it smooth. Now, apply the mixture to your skin and leave it on for 10–15 minutes. You can also add sandalwood powder to this mixture because sandalwood is also good for pigmentation removal.
Placing green tea bags under the eyes reduces inflammation and puffiness. Due to their high flavonoid content, green tea bags may help improve skin elasticity and reduce dark circles as well as pigmentation. Using green tea bags is a better choice because green tea is known to be an effective remedy that helps prevent skin redness caused by UV radiation.
How to apply: Brew green tea bags and let them cool. Place a bag under each eye for 10–15 minutes, ensuring they cover the dark circles. Gently press the bags to release the antioxidant-rich tea. Dispose of the used tea bags and moisturise your skin.
4. Potato slices
Potato slices are a natural remedy for pigmentation issues. It contains enzymes and vitamin C that may help lighten dark spots and even out skin tone. The mild acidic properties may exfoliate dead skin cells, promoting a brighter complexion. It can also nourish your skin, all thanks to vitamin A, vitamin C, starch, and enzymes.
How to apply: First of all, wash the potatoes, peel them, and then cut them into slices. Put a few drops of rose water on potato slices and rub it for some time on the blemishes visible under the eyes. You can also slice a raw potato and place the slices on the affected areas for 15-20 minutes.
Placing potato slice under your eye may help reduce dark circles. Image courtesy: Shutterstock
5. Papaya
Papaya, rich in enzymes like papain and antioxidants, is well known for its potential benefits in addressing pigmentation issues. Papain exfoliates dead skin cells, aiding in cell turnover and reducing dark spots. The vitamin A and C content in this fruit helps lighten pigmentation and promote a more even skin tone. Additionally, papaya’s moisturising properties may contribute to a healthier complexion.
How to apply: To use papaya for pigmentation, mash a ripe papaya and add the goodness of aloe vera gel to it. Mix both ingredients well. Now, apply the mixture to the affected areas, leaving it on for 15-20 minutes before rinsing. It will leave your skin looking spotless and glowing.
7 other skincare tips to prevent pigmentation
Shield your skin from UV rays with sunscreen (SPF 30+) and wear full-sleeved clothes.
Use gentle skincare products to prevent irritation and pigmentation.
Moisturise your skin properly to prevent dehydration, reducing the risk of pigmentation.
Consume a balanced diet rich in antioxidants to promote skin tone.
Remove dead skin cells through exfoliation, preventing pigmentation buildup.
Apply vitamin C or retinol-based creams to target pigmentation.
Consult with a dermatologist if nothing works.
A regular application of these home remedies could potentially reduce pigmentation over time. However, results vary, and it’s crucial to consult with a dermatologist for severe pigmentation!
Well, it’s staring us right in the eye, so it’s time to get down to it. All is calm, all is bright for some of us. For others, the emotional and mental thunder makes a silent night impossible. And so this is Christmas.
’And so this is Christmas For weak and for strong For rich and the poor ones The world is so wrong’
When I was growing up, Christmas was always a big deal. And I tried to keep it special for my children.
Over the years, I’ve experienced Christmases right out of the Hallmark Channel.archives. And for a handful, I had to do with a Whopper and TV.
Given my personal experience and profession, I have a heart for those to whom Christmas doesn’t come easy. – like our friend above.
And so this is Christmas
I’ve been a John Lennon fan since he and his mates appeared on the Ed Sullivan Show in 1964.
Naturally, then, I was thrilled when John & Yoko/Plastic Ono Band released “Happy Xmas (War Is Over)” in 1971. And go figure, it’s become a Christmas classic.
Let’s do some of the lyrics…
So this is Christmas And what have you done? Another year over And a new one just begun
And so this is Christmas I hope you have fun The near and the dear one The old and the young
A very merry Christmas And a happy New Year Let’s hope it’s a good one Without any fear
And so this is Christmas For weak and for strong For rich and the poor ones The world is so wrong
And so happy Christmas For black and for white For yellow and red ones Let’s stop all the fight
A very merry Christmas And a happy New Year Let’s hope it’s a good one Without any fear
Would you like to hear it?
No matter who you are and no matter your circumstances, you deserve love and peace. If you haven’t already, I hope you find them…
Bill
Hey, I know where you can find more Chipur info and inspiration articles. Yep, the titles.
Seed trays are essential for starting seeds and cuttings. Seed trays are commoly lightweight plastic, biodegrable paper, or compressed peat trays divided into separate cells, like a muffin tin, for growing individual seedlings.
Seed tray cells are usually 2 to 3 inches deep and up to 3 inches square or round. Some seed tray cells can be as small as 1 inch deep and 1 inch in diameter. Seed trays vary in size from small six packs (approximatley 4 by 8 inches) to as large as 12 by 20 inches or larger. Some seed trays come with a flat tray underneath to catch excess water. Some come with a plastic top or dome to create a small greenhouse.
There are many options available in the market. It can be overwhelming to know which one is the best fit for your needs. Here is a guide to seed trays and how they are used.
Biodegradable seed starting tray
Types of seed starting trays
Choose a seed tray that suits your specific needs. There are various types available, including individual cell trays, multi-cell trays, and open flat trays. Individual cell trays are ideal for larger seeds or plants that require ample space, as each cell provides enough room for seedlings to develop. Multi-cell trays are perfect for smaller seeds or plants that can be closely spaced, as they provide multiple compartments in which to sow your seeds. Open flat trays, on the other hand, are versatile and can accommodate seeds of various sizes, allowing for greater flexibility.
Plastic sectioned starting tray
Lightweight plastic tray divided into separate cells usually 2 to 3 inches deep and up to 3 inches square or round. Plastic trays can be very thin and light or heavier. Some have flexible bottoms that allow rooted seedlings to be pushed out of the tray from the bottom.
Sectioned fiber seed tray
Compressed paper fiber or peat trays are similar in size and depth to plastic trays. Sometimes sold with plastic trays that they fit beneath the setioned tray to catch water that drips through. Some are designed especially to fit onto windowsills, called windowsill sets.
Open trays or flats
Open trays or flats do not have individual cells. Flats are often 6 to 12 inches wide and 12 to 24 inches long. They can be used for starting very small seeds that can be broadcast or scattered across the the starting medium surface. Seedlings grown in open trays or flats often need thinning so that individual seedlings can grow on without competion from neighboring seedlings.
Self-watering seed trays
Self-watering seed trays have drainage holes and capillary matting. An outer tray without drainable holes fit into the bottom of the starting tray. The seedlings are watered indirectly – water put in the bottom tray is pulled up into the starting tray.
Seed trays with plastic covers
Seed trays with clear plastic covers provide extra climate control at the germianitng stage. The plastic cover or dome fits over the top of the starting tray. The plainest version of this starting tray looks something like a casserole dish. Some have high domes that allow seedlings to grow to 3 or 4 inches tall. Seed trays with clear plastic lids act as mini-greenhouses, creating a moist and warm environment ideal for germination. Others have adjustable vents that allow for temperature and humidity control. These features can be particularly useful if you are starting seeds in colder climates and want to extend your growing season.
Plastic seed starting tray with tomato seedlings
Seed tray use tips
Sow two or three seeds in each compartment to compensate for poor germination. If more than one seed germinates, thin out the weakest, leaving only one seedling in each section.
All seedlings in each tray should have the same watering requirements and planting times for ease of maintenance.
The growing medium should be premoistened before sowing seed.
Fiber or peat trays can be cut apart and completely buried in the garden (where the material will disintegrate nautrally). Trim off any part of the pot above soil line.
Seed tray material
Seed trays are commonly made of plastic or biodegradable materials. Plastic trays are durable, lightweight, and easy to clean, making them a popular choice among gardeners. Biodegradable trays, made from materials such as peat or coconut fiber, are environmentally friendly options that can be directly planted into the ground, preventing the disturbance of young plants during transplantation.
Plastic trays
Plastic trays are the most common choice due to their durability and affordability. They are lightweight, easy to clean, and provide good insulation for young plants. Plastic trays come in various sizes and designs. Plastic trays have excellent moisture retention, helping to create optimal conditions for seed germination. However, it is important to ensure that the plastic used is BPA-free to avoid any potential harm to your plants.
Some plastic trays are made from recycled materials such as recycled plastic or compostable materials; these are an excellent choice for reducing waste. Recycled trays often have the same benefits as traditional plastic trays, including durability and lightweight construction.
Biodegradable fiber or paper trays
Biodegradable trays made from materials like recycled paper, peat, or coconut coir are an eco-friendly alternative. These trays can be directly planted into the ground, reducing transplant shock and saving the gardener’s time and effort. Peat and fiber trays have excellent water retention capabilities and promote healthy root growth. Once seedlings are ready to be transplanted, the trays can be cut apart and the indivdual sectios can be planted directly into the ground. Peat and fiber trays can be more expensive than their plastic counterparts.
Seed tray with bottom tray to catch water
Seed tray depth
Seed trays can have cells of varying depth. Some types of plants have deeper root systems and require more space to grow, while others have shallower roots and can thrive in smaller cells. Make sure to choose a seed tray with the appropriate depth for the plants you are planning to grow.
Seed tray drainage
Seed trays must have drainage holes. Good drainage is essential for preventing waterlogging and ensuring healthy root development. Look for trays with good drainage capabilities to provide optimal conditions for your plants. Seed trays commonly have bottom drainage which allows excess water to easily escape. If water does not water easily drain away, seedling roots can become waterlogged and develop root rot. Bottom drainage allows for air circulation and prevents the build-up of harmful mold and fungus. Some seed trays feature small holes on the sides of the tray. This can provide a more controlled water supply to seeds.
Open tray or flat; seed is broadcast across the growing medium
Seed tray buying tips
Seed trays come in various sizes, ranging from compact ones with just a few cells to larger ones with dozens or even hundreds of cells. Consider the space you have available and the number of plants you intend to sow before making your decision. If you have limited space or are sowing a small number of seeds, a smaller seed tray would be appropriate. On the other hand, if you have a larger garden or are planning to sow a significant number of seeds, opting for a larger tray will give your seeds more room to grow and develop.
Ensure that the seed tray has adequate drainage holes. Proper drainage is crucial for seedling health as it prevents waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other problems. Look for trays with sufficient drainage holes to ensure that excess water can easily escape, providing your seeds with the perfect balance of moisture.
Sectioned trays are more expensive than the single flat often used by many professional growers. Sectioned tays are worth the extra money because they prevent root competition among seedlings as roots can devleop only within confines of each section — thus reducing transplant shock.
Plastic trays can be reused year after year. Look for stiff, solid fabrication that will not easily break.
Self-watering trays are easy to use and worth the extra cost if you find watering on a regular schedule difficult.
Consider factors such as durability, moisture retention, and eco-friendliness when making your decision. By selecting the right seed tray material, you can create the ideal environment for your plants to thrive and ensure a successful gardening experience.
If the amount of moisture in your body lotion feels insufficient for your parched skin, think about incorporating a body oil into your skincare regime. Body oils help to strengthen the skin barrier, increase moisture content and supply vitamins. They imitate the sebum produced by your skin naturally. When applied over a lotion, they trap moisture and leave the skin feeling smooth and silky. They are especially beneficial for people who want a natural glow but have dry and rough skin. So, it was worth curating the best body oils for dry skin just for you!
5 body oils to hydrate your dry skin
Body oil is an extra step in skincare routines that leaves the skin feeling nourished and moisturised, giving it a smooth and even glow. Try these best 5 body oils that can be perfect for dry skin!
1. Palmer’s Cocoa Butter Formula Soothing Oil
This calming oil has been specially blended to calm, hydrate and soften dry, irritated skin. It is straightforward to use and comes in a handy pump spray bottle. Cocoa butter, vitamin E, collagen, lecithin, and elastin are combined to make this oil, which soothes and softens skin without sacrificing its firmness or elasticity.
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2. KEYA SETH AROMATHERAPY Body Oil
Its quick-absorbing qualities and lightweight nature make it the perfect body oil for both summer and winter. Rich in vitamin C from oranges, this product maintains the flexibility of skin, as well as encourages the production of collagens. These attributes make it one of the top body oils for dry skin in India.
B0821H1929
3. Blue Nectar Kumkumadi Body Oil
Discover the ultimate change in hydration as the product fights flakiness and reveals incredibly soft, supple skin while delivering powerful moisture. This Body polishing oil, enriched with natural components such as milk, sesame oil, fresh saffron, and almond oil, leaves your skin feeling incredibly smooth and nourished.
B01N6QKV43
4. mCaffeine Coffee Body Oil for Dry Skin
Enjoy a revitalising massage that awakens your skin and calms your senses while stimulating coffee consumption. The Coffee Body Polishing Oil is a lightweight, non-sticky oil that gives the skin a healthy sheen and is packed with pure Arabica coffee and vitamin E. To stimulate your senses, it also emanates the aroma of freshly ground Arabica coffee.
B082DGN5JJ
5. House of Ayurveda Everyday Body Oil
Use this vitamin-rich body oil to soothe dry, irritated, or flaky skin. Since it contains so many oils—jojoba, olive, safflower, avocado, and argan—it is incomparable to skin that is too dry. Further, its fast and absorbing nature makes it perfect for everyday use.
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What are the benefits of body oil?
Body oils work wonders for reducing dry, scaly skin that is brought on by harsh cleaners, hot showers, and changing weather.
An excellent body oil helps to seal in moisture and hydrate the skin. Oils soak rapidly and don’t leave a greasy residue, unlike popular belief.
Body oils are a cost-effective addition to any cosmetic collection because of their versatility.
In addition to rubbing oil all over your body, you may also use a few drops in your bath, soften cuticles for a mani-pedi at home, or apply it as a calming massage oil.
It is even believed that some oils can reduce the visibility of stretch marks, heal scars, and calm sensitive skin.
What is the difference between body oil and body lotion?
Body lotion and oil are both excellent for giving you softer, more radiant skin. However, maintaining moisturised skin extends beyond how it looks and feels. Keeping your skin hydrated is important for general health as well because your skin serves as a barrier to protect the rest of your body.
It is especially crucial to moisturise your skin during the winter months and in arid locations, or if you already have a skin barrier-compromising condition such as psoriasis or eczema. Compared to body lotion, body oil is heavier and thicker. It helps to keep moisture in by forming a barrier on the skin’s outermost layer. On the other hand, body lotion has a thinner consistency and is lighter. It can aid in softening and calming dry skin.
(Disclaimer: At Health Shots, we make a constant effort to break the clutter for our readers. All products listed are carefully curated by the editorial team but use your discretion and an expert’s opinion before using them. Their price and availability may differ from the time of publication. If you buy something using these links in the story, we may earn a commission.)
Once the wedding date gets fixed, brides-to-be start looking for the perfect wedding attire. Salon trips become part of their routine as well. Brides want to look and feel their best on their D-day, and for some losing a few pounds is one part of it. Wedding weight loss is a thing for many brides, and there are many weight loss exercises out there that can help you shed the extra kilos. If dropping pounds is your fitness goal, start preparing a weight-loss workout plan well before your wedding day.
The ideal time to start working out depends on several factors such as your fitness level, goals, and the wedding date. However, a general recommendation is to start early to allow for gradual and sustainable progress, says fitness expert Abhi Singh Thakur.
Know which all weight loss exercises to include in your wedding workout plan. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
Weight loss exercises for brides-to-be
There are many exercises that you can add to your fitness routine. Here are some of the most effective exercises –
1. Running
Begin with a warm-up such as light jogging or brisk walking for about 10 minutes. Then start running at a comfortable pace, focusing on proper form and breathing. Gradually increase your speed or include intervals (alternating between periods of higher intensity and recovery) to add variety and intensity to this cardiovascular exercise.
2. Squats
To do this strength training exercise, stand with feet shoulder-width apart. Then lower your body by bending your knees and hips, as if you are sitting on a chair. While doing so, keep your back straight, and ensure your knees do not extend beyond your toes. Then push through your heels to go back to the starting position. Begin with bodyweight squats and gradually add resistance as you become more comfortable.
3. Burpees
Begin in a standing position then drop into a squat position, placing your hands on the ground. Kick your feet back so that you can do a plank position, and then a push-up. Jump and get back into a squat position then explosively jump up from the squat position, reaching your arms overhead. Land softly and quickly go into the next repetition.
Place your forearms on the ground, with your elbows right below your shoulders. Right from your head to heels, your body needs to be in a straight line. Hold the plank position for as long as possible, aiming for 60 seconds to failure, says Thakur. Focus on keeping your back straight and avoiding sagging or lifting your hips.
5. Yoga
Yoga is a practice that many prefer to do, as it has many health benefits, including weight loss. You can do yoga poses such as downward dog, warrior poses and child’s pose. Follow a routine that includes both strength-building and flexibility-enhancing poses. Pay attention to breathing and mindfulness during the practice to reduce stress.
While running and burpees provide cardiovascular benefits, squats contribute to muscle building and metabolism boost, plank enhances core strength, and yoga addresses flexibility and stress reduction.
What to keep in mind while planning a wedding weight loss plan?
Don’t just wake up one day and stop eating your favourite foods to lose weight. There are a few points to keep in mind before coming up with a weight loss plan –
1. Timing matters
Starting a weight loss workout plan at least three to six months before the wedding provides a reasonable timeframe for seeing positive changes without resorting to extreme or crash diets.
2. Mind your fitness level
If you haven’t If your fitness level is low, you may need more time to adapt to a regular exercise routine. Starting early allows for a progressive and manageable increase in workout intensity, the expert tells Health Shots.
3. Avoid stress
Stress is inevitable when you have so much to look forward to at the wedding! Starting early helps to avoid the stress and pressure of trying to achieve rapid results in the weeks leading up to the wedding.
Avoid stress if you want to lose weight before your wedding. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
4. Consultation with professionals
If possible, consult with fitness trainers, nutritionists or healthcare professionals. They can help to create a personalised plan for you.
5. Establishing healthy habits
Starting early allows you to establish healthy habits, both in terms of exercise and nutrition. Developing a sustainable lifestyle, rather than focusing solely on the wedding date is key.
Remember to set achievable weight loss goals, focus on a sustainable diet, stay busy doing daily activities beyond formal workouts and ensure enough quality sleep each night.
The brain’s design is difficult to wrap one’s head around. Just one example is our dopamine-driven reward system. Without it, we don’t exist. With it, we could get caught in a dangerous trap. It’s fascinating and important, so let’s dig in…
’This disconnection is a set-up for addiction as we search for other sources of dopamine. The ‘other sources’ look shockingly similar to the list of common cultural complaints – overeating and obesity, drug and alcohol abuse, consumerism, chronic hooking up.’
It’s pretty common knowledge that our reward system is a huge factor in substance use disorders.
But what escapes the headlines is its role in any impulse control situation: overeating, problem gambling, excessive internet use, hypersexual behavior, explosive rage, and more.
And, of course, it can be a player in the generation of mood and anxiety misery.
I find the reward system fascinating and relevant to what we do here on Chipur. And I think you will too.
In fact, we’ll make a series out of it, coming back in short order with a detailed piece on dopamine.
Let’s get busy…
What is the reward system?
The reward system is a gathering of brain structures and neural pathways responsible for major cognitive functions such as behavior learning through association (classical conditioning), behavior learning through reward and punishment (operant conditioning), motivation and craving for a reward, and positive emotions – especially those involved with pleasure.
By design, the reward system is about survival behaviors – reproduction, eating, socializing, physical defense.
Anatomy
Anatomy of the reward system
There are numerous pieces of anatomy that make the reward system roll. You can see some of them in the image. However, the heavy hitters are the ventral tegmental area (VTA) and nucleus accumbens (NA).
Now, the power line of our reward system is the medial forebrain bundle (MFB). It’s the MFB, a neural pathway, that transmits signals from the VTA to the NA. It isn’t identified in the image, but you can see the green line connecting the two.
Makes sense that the MFB is frequently referred to as the “hedonic highway.” Using drugs of abuse (DOA) to illustrate the point, when the MFB is blocked, the longing for DOA is greatly reduced or downright ceases.
The signals that pass through the MFB are supported by dopaminergic (dopamine releasing) neurons. Generally speaking, drugs that are not abused have no effect on dopaminergic concentrations.
Physiology
Trying to cover everything about the reward system’s physiology would exhaust both of us. So we’re going to fast-forward to the appearance of the inhibitory neurotransmitter, gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA).
If you use a benzodiazepine, such as alprazolam (Xanax) or clonazepam (Klonopin), you’re benefiting from their impact upon GABA-A receptors.
Again, to illustrate a point, DOA act upon GABA receptors, which leads to neurons being inhibited from firing. And that results in the release of less GABA onto dopaminergic neurons.
When that happens, a disinhibition of dopaminergic neurons occurs, which makes them fire more regularly – releasing more dopamine into our reward system.
And wouldn’t you know it, higher dopamine concentrations result in feelings of well-being, even euphoria. So the buzz is on.
Addiction
Interestingly enough, it’s through GABAs interaction with limbic system structures – the amygdala, hippocampus, hypothalamus, thalamus, cingulate gyrus, etc. – that we experience anxiety reduction, sedation, and behavioral disinhibition.
So, in fact, the components of the brain that generate anxiety-reducing effects are, let’s say, an extension of the reward system.
Bottom-line: outside “substances” (DOA, food, internet porn, social media, and more) gain entry into our bodies and use our reward system to fulfill their mission.
And it quickly becomes a reciprocating relationship. Our reward system ends up needing the substance, just as the substance needs our reward system.
And as it so often goes, the substance commandeers the reward system – and addiction is on.
Input from Dr. Amy Banks
In prep for this piece I came upon a great article on Psychology Today’s site by Dr. Amy Banks, co-author of Four Ways to Click: Rewire Your Brain for Stronger, More Rewarding Relationships.
Let’s add Dr. Banks’ input to our discussion…
Banks opens by observing that dopamine is trending as the most popular neurotransmitter. Why? It’s responsible for…
The craving many of us experience when smelling the morning coffee brewing
The elation we deeply feel when we fall in love
The thrill of a shopping spree
The desire for that second or third glass of wine at dinner
Banks asks, “So what’s the harm? It’s a natural, biologically based chemical that provides energy and motivation.
Operant conditioning
She answers the question by recalling B.F. Skinner’s operant conditioning work in the 1950s. Scientists put electrodes into the limbic system (emotional center) of rat’s brains and gave them a small zap when the rat entered a specific corner of a box.
Everyone thought if the shock was unpleasant enough it would cause the rat to keep away from the corner. Hmmm, but something unexpected occurred. When the electrode was placed in the nucleus accumbens, instead of avoiding the corner, the rats went back to get the shock time and again – as in 700 times in an hour. They even chose a shock over food.
Banks points out the behavior was something the rats absolutely “needed” to do.
The takeaway, according to Banks…
The increase in motivation and energy that dopamine provides can be a good thing, but when your brain gets wired to compulsive behaviors that stimulate the dopamine reward pathway (addictions) then your life can be as out of control as the poor rat in Skinner’s Box.
Dr. Banks believes dopamine and the reward system aren’t the problems. No, the problem is how we stimulate the dopamine pathway.
She summarizes…
This disconnection is a set-up for addiction as we search for other sources of dopamine. The ‘other sources’ look shockingly similar to the list of common cultural complaints – overeating and obesity, drug and alcohol abuse, consumerism, chronic hooking up.
Not only do these addictive, destructive behaviors get paired to the dopamine reward system but they create a feedback loop of isolation that pushes people towards more addictions.
Without healthy relationships we each become like the rats in Skinner’s Box – seeking dopamine from all the wrong places. It is time to rewire our brains for the healthy relationships and connections that reward us with positive energy and motivation.
And there you have it.
Run with it
Our reward system and dopamine: absolutely stunning design and mechanics. But as incredible and life-sustaining as they are, we need to be mindful of the trap.
I’ve always relied upon understanding the anatomy and physiology of emotional and mental challenges for healing direction and hope.
If you’re struggling with impulsive behaviors, even with a mood or anxiety situation, what you just read had to have hit home.
Reward system image: Authors: Oscar Arias-Carrión1, Maria Stamelou, Eric Murillo-Rodríguez, Manuel Menéndez-González and Ernst Pöppel. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported license. No changes.
