It ain’t always sunshine, lollipops, and rainbows. Life can become difficult and dark. Many say there’s no “can” about it. Are you struggling right now? How about 12 pieces of hope?
If we don’t accept life’s inherent difficulty and darkness, we’ll never have a shot at peace of mind and personal growth.
Depression, anxiety, bipolar disorder, no diagnosis – doesn’t matter, it applies to everyone.
Of course, acceptance is one thing, taking action is another.
12 Pieces of Hope When Life Becomes Difficult
So we’ve established that life can become difficult and dark. Maybe that’s the way it is for you right now. From my experience, those pieces of hope…
Take comfort in constants. We may feel dark and cold, but the rest of the world hasn’t changed.
The day after the very worst of days often brings surprisingly positive developments.
The difficulty and darkness factors of life are permanent – only if we turn away acceptance and action.
Hope is like the sun on a cloudy day. We may not see it, but it’s there.
Answers exist, though they’re not always immediate and clear.
Knee-jerk running for emotional and mental cover doesn’t work.
It’s never over until we say it’s over.
We can’t underestimate the power of reason in changing how we think – feel and behave.
Living in yesterday eliminates tomorrows.
Something marvelous was about to occur, until we threw in the towel.
Rumination is ruination.
Anybody can cruise through the good times. Give me someone who’s fought for their sanity, survival, and peace of mind.
I’ll bet each of us can come up with more.
Keep our chins up
It ain’t all sunshine, lollipops, and rainbows. I’ve come to expect it. And when life gets difficult and dark, acceptance and action are all that matter.
Those pieces of hope? A little something to keep our chins up.
Most vegetable garden diseases can be prevented and controlled. Limit disease damage by identifying diseases quickly and taking action.
Regular visits to the garden will help you spot diseased plants before the disease spreads. Choose the most effective control and then work to prevent future disease outbreaks.
Listed here are 25 common vegetable diseases. The list is in alphabetical order.
Description: Fungus disease. Overwinters on infected seeds, plant debris, or in the soil. Wet weather promotes growth; optimum growth is between 78°F and 86°F.
Damage: Dark brown circular sunken spots on stems, leaves, pods, or fruit. The center of lesions may ooze pink spore masses. Leaf veins become reddish. Leaves may wither and fall. The plant will die back.
Spread: Overwinters in the garden in the debris of diseased plants. Spread by wind, rain, animals, gardeners, and tools. High humidity, high rainfall, and high temperatures encourage spread. Generally found in eastern North America.
Prevention and controls: Spray or dust with a fixed copper- or sulfur-based fungicide every 7 to 10 days. Remove and discard infected plants. Do not save seeds from infected planting areas; use western-grown seeds or seeds from areas not infected. Rotate crops. Avoid working in the garden when it is wet which can result in the spread of spores. Keep tools clean.
Description: A fungus disease of massed reddish or black spores grows on asparagus ferns.
Damage: Tiny, rust-colored spores mass on asparagus ferns. Black spores mass in late summer. Fern growth is retarded. Yield is reduced. High humidity and wet weather encourage spread.
Spread: Rust spores are blown by the wind or carried by gardeners, tools, animals, or insects. Spores can overwinter in plant debris. Heavy dew and high humidity encourage this disease. Found throughout North America.
Prevention and controls: Plant-resistant varieties. Cut plants to the ground at the end of each season. Remove and destroy plant debris. Keep water off of leaves. Use a preventative sulfur spray or dust every 7 to 10 days until 3 or 4 weeks before harvest.
Scientific name: Puccinia asparagi
Bacterial blight
Bacterial blight
Susceptible plants: Beans, peas.
Description: Bacterial disease. Most severe where humidity is high for long periods.
Damage: Beans: large brown blotches bordered with yellow or red on the leaves of beans. Water-soaked spots on pods. Pea stems turn purple or nearly black near the ground. Small water-soaked spots on leaves; yellow to brown spots on pods enlarge to reddish color.
Spread: Bacteria enter plants through small openings and wounds. Spread by wind, infected seeds. Overwinters in plant debris. Most severe where humidity remains high for long periods. Found throughout mid-North America, but rarely west of the Rocky Mountains.
Prevention and controls: Remove infected plants and discard them. Bacterial blight can not be cured. Do not save seed from the infected area. Rotate crops. Avoid working in the garden when it is wet; this may result in the spread of disease.
Description: A bacterial disease that clogs the capillaries transporting water and nutrients through plants. Common in moist soils; active where temperatures are greater than 75°F. Bacteria live within cucumber beetles and can be transmitted to vine crops through their feces.
Damage: Begins with wilting of a few leaves or a small portion of the vine. Wilt spreads to the whole plant within a week or so. When the vine is cut, white ooze will flow from the stem.
Spread Cucumber beetles, infected seedlings, soil, and water. The disease is most severe in the central, southern, and eastern United States.
Prevention and controls: Remove and destroy infected plants before the disease spreads. Control cucumber beetles with rotenone or sabadilla. Wash hands and clean tools with a bleach solution.
Description: A fungus disease of reddish-orange to brown spore masses that cause leaves to drop.
Damage: Numerous, tiny, rust-colored spots appear on the leaves of mature plants. The fungus may first appear as whitish-raised spots on the underside of leaves. Leaves turn yellow and die. High humidity and wet weather encourage spread.
Spread: Rust spores are blown by the wind or carried by gardeners, tools, animals, or insects. Spores can overwinter in plant debris. Heavy dew and high humidity favor this disease. Found throughout North America.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Rotate crops. Remove and destroy plant debris. Keep water off of leaves. Spray or dust with a sulfur spray every 7 to 10 days until the disease is controlled.
Description: A fungus disease resulting in dry rot. Carried on seed and lives in the soil. Most severe in humid or rainy weather.
Damage: Sunken areas develop on the lower stem, blacken, and girdle the stem. Gray spots and specks with black dots appear on leaves and stems. Leaf edges wilt and turn bluish or red. The plant wilts and dies.
Spread: Infected seed. Spores can over-winter for 1 or 2 years in plant debris. Rain can spread spores. Tools. Black leg is found in central, southern, and eastern North America.
Prevention and controls: Fixed copper fungicides. Remove and destroy infected plants. Rotate crops. Clean up plant debris.
Description: The bacterial disease is encouraged by wet weather.
Damage: Infects young and mature plants. Seedlings turn yellow and die. Mature plants develop wedge-shaped yellow regions and margins that expand to the center of the leaf. Leaves brown, die, and drop. Vascular tubes in plants turn black and foul-smelling. Heads of plants may rot.
Spread: Bacteria overwinters in soil and plant debris. Rain, surface water, and insects can spread disease. Found in the central, southern, and eastern United States.
Prevention and controls: Cannot be remedied. Remove and destroy infected plants. Clean garden in fall. Apply micronized sulfur to nearby but uninfected plants every 7 days until harvest.
Description: Environmental factors cause blossom end rot, not a pathogen. Irregular watering–water, then drought, then water, then drought–particularly when the fruit is forming is one cause. Too much water may also cause blossom end rot. A calcium imbalance in the soil may also result in insufficient water uptake.
Damage: Cells at the end of the blossom fail to receive sufficient water; the blossom end of the fruit becomes dry, sunken, and leathery in tomatoes. Peppers can turn brown-black or light-colored and papery at the blossom end. Half of each fruit may be affected.
Prevention and controls: Maintain even soil moisture. Mulch and cultivate only shallowly during drought. The soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0, add limestone which contains calcium if the pH is below 6.0.
Scientific name: Blossom end rot is caused by a lack of calcium in the fruits. Blossom-end rot of tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum Mill.)
Neck rot on onion
Botrytis rot — neck rot
Susceptible plants: Onions, chives, garlic, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, thyme. Sweet onions are most susceptible. Neck rot is a post-harvest disease; pathogens enter the plant through soft tissue injury.
Description: Bulbs start rotting 4 to 8 weeks after they are harvested.
Damage: Rotted area looks water-soaked; tissue turns brown and dry up. Gray spores appear and grow. Tissue takes on a sunken appearance and becomes spongy.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Dry bulbs fully. Plant clean seed; the disease can be seed-borne.
Scientific name: Botrytis cinerea
Clubroot disease
Clubroot
Susceptible plants: Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, collards, kohlrabi, and turnips.
Description. A fungal disease that lives in the soil and enters a plant through its roots.
Damage: Roots become enlarged and swollen (clubbed) and begin to malfunction. They may crack or rot. Young plants are killed. Older plants have reduced yields. Plants are yellow and wilt during the day; leaf heads are small. Plants may recover from wilt at night.
Spread: Fungal spores spread from infected plants by wind, water, or tools. Spores survive for at least 7 years.
Prevention and controls: Remove diseased plants from the garden. Use a 4-year rotation. Clubroot thrives in acid soil; add lime if the soil pH is below 6.0. Raise the pH to 7.2. Grow seedlings in a sterile soil mix.
Scientific name: Plasmodiophora brassicae
Corn smut disease
Corn smut
Susceptible plant: Corn
Description. Fungus disease causes gray-white galls on corn seedlings, stalks, and ears.
Damage: Whitish-gray galls appear on the ear or other parts of the corn plant. Galls mature, turn black, and burst releasing thousands of spores.
Spread: Fungal spores are spread by wind or transmitted by humans and tools. Warm dry weather encourages spread.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Remove and destroy galls before galls break open. Apply sulfur- or copper-based fungicide every 7 to 10 days. Remove all crop debris. Rotate crops. Do not compost diseased plants.
Description: Curly top is a viral disease. Leaves pucker, curl, and twist. Plant growth is stunted.
Damage: Leaves curl and yellow. Plants become stunted. Fruit does not set or yield is reduced.
Spread: Whiteflies and leafhoppers transmit the virus.
Prevention and control: Curly top cannot be cured. Plant disease-resistant varieties. Remove and destroy infected plants. Control weeds, insects, and nematodes. Cover plants with row covers if leafhoppers are a problem in the garden.
Scientific name: pathogenic plant virus of the family Geminiviridae
Description: Sclerotinia fungus disease lives in the soil, particularly where are high humidity and warm temperatures.
Damage: The base of the stem near the soil is pinched and bent over causing seedlings to die.
Spread: The fungus lives in the soil, primarily in seed beds. The fungus can spread via transported soil or tools. The disease is present throughout North America.
Prevention and controls: Plant in well-drained soil. Use a sterile seed-starting mix. Water seedlings from below. Allow the soil surface to dry before nightfall. Use a fan to keep the air circulating.
Description. A fungal disease that thrives where nights are wet and cool and days are warm and humid. The fungus overwinters in crop and garden debris and spreads through infected seeds.
Damage: Yellowish to light green areas on the surface of older leaves. A felt-like, whitish growth will develop on the underside of the leaves. A white, felt-like growth forms on the pods of beans, with a possible reddish discoloration around the white areas. Most common in the eastern US because high humidity and cool temperatures promote spread.
Spread: Spores can be carried by insects, wind, rain, and tools. Spore production is greatest where temperatures are cooler than 65°F and humidity is near 100 percent. Common in the eastern United States where there are cool temperatures and high humidity.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Destroy infected plants and all crop debris. Rotate crops each year. Avoid wetting the tops of plants when watering. Spray or dust with a copper-based fungicide every 7 to 10 days until harvest.
Scientific name: Peronospora effusa
Early blight disease
Early blight
Susceptible plants: Celery, potatoes, tomatoes.
Description: Fungus disease that overwinters in plant debris.
Damage: Irregular dark spots appear on older leaves followed by a series of concentric dark rings. Spots usually appear on older leaves first. Defoliation can follow. Collar rot at soil level girdles the stems of tomatoes. Cankers or decay can form on fruit and tubers. Warm, wet weather can cause the disease to spread rapidly over the entire plant. Yield is reduced.
Spread: Spores overwinter in plant debris. They can be spread by wind or insects. Spread is encouraged by heavy dew, rainfall, and warm temperatures. Early blight is found throughout North America.
Prevention and controls: Plant healthy seed potatoes and tomato seedlings. Rotate crops. Keep the garden free of plant debris. Spray or dust with copper-based fungicide every 7 to 10 days.
Description: Fungal disease which infects plant vascular tissues. The fungus lives in the soil and infects plants through the roots. The fungus prefers warm, dry weather with soil temperatures between 60°F and 90°F.
Damage: Leaves and stems turn yellow beginning from the base of the plant. Plants wilt and become stunted. Yields are reduced. Plants may die.
Spread: Spores can live in the soil for up to 20 years. Water and striped cucumber beetles can carry the disease. Fusarium wilt is common throughout the United States, particularly from the Rocky Mountains east.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Rotate crops. Remove and destroy infected plants. Fungicides are not effective.
Scientific name: Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. Lycopersici
Late blight on tomato
Late blight
Susceptible plants: Celery, potatoes, tomatoes.
Description: Fungus disease attacks plants after they blossom.
Damage: Water-soaked round spots or patches form on leaves. Leaf spots turn brownish black; a white fungal growth may form on the underside of leaves. Leaf stalks and stems may become soft and blighted.
Spread: Fungus overwinters in plant debris. Seed, water, and wind can carry the disease. Rainy, foggy weather with temperatures between 70°F and 80°F during the day and 20 degrees cooler at night are favorable to late blight.
Prevention and controls. Plant disease-resistant varieties. Plant clean seed potatoes. Rotate crops. Keep the garden clean of plant debris. Spray or dust with copper-based fungicide every 7 to 10 days.
Description: Fungus or bacteria disease attacks leaves; also called Septoria leaf spot or Septoria blight.
Damage: Leaves are dotted with small spots, gray on tomatoes or tan to light brown on blackberries. Spot may have purplish borders. As spots enlarge, black dots will appear in the center. The disease may cause leaves to drop.
Spread: Seeds, rain, and wind will transmit the disease, also transmitted by working with wet plants. Occurs in the central and eastern United States.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Rotate crops. Keep the garden free of plant debris. Apply copper dust or liquid copper spray every 7 to 10 days.
Scientific name: Some of the fungi associated with leaf spots are Alternaria, Ascochyta, Blumeriella, Cercospora, Colletotrichum, Entomosporium, Gnomonia, Guignardia, Mycosphaerella, Phyllosticta, Septoria, Tubakia, and Venturia. Common bacteria associated with leaf spots are Pseudomonas and Xanthomonas.
Susceptible plants: Cabbage family crops, squash family crops, carrots strawberries.
Description: Fungual disease; Alternaria leaf blight is particularly problematic for plants in the cabbage and squash families. Strawberries and carrots are also susceptible. When Alternaria infects broccoli and cauliflower plants, it may cause brown areas on the heads.
Damage: Small yellow spots that appear first on older leaves are a symptom of this fungal blight. These spots gradually enlarge and become dark-colored areas filled with concentric rings.
Spread: As with most fungal diseases, Alternaria thrives in warm, wet weather. The spores are spread by wind and are able to enter leaf tissues when the foliage has been consistently moist for 24 hours. The fungus overwinters on plant debris in and around the garden, and can also be transmitted by seed.
Prevention and controls: Remove infected plants and discard them. Bacterial diseases can not be cured. Do not save seed from the infected area. Rotate crops. Avoid working in the garden when it is wet; this may result in the spread of disease.
Description: Mosaic, common mosaic, and tobacco mosaic: viral diseases that stunt plant growth. Mosaic overwinters in perennial weeds and is transmitted by aphids and cucumber beetles.
Damage: Leaves become mottled yellow and green and may curl and crinkle. Plants are stunted. Yields are reduced. Infected fruit is mottled, bumpy, and misshapen and will ripen unevenly.
Spread: Mosaic cannot be cured. Aphids and spotted or striped cucumber beetles can spread mosaic virus to susceptible plants. Mosaic over-winters in perennial weeds. The virus can also be spread by people working with infected plants. Mosaic virus can be found throughout North America.
Prevention and controls. Mosaic can not be cured. Remove and destroy diseased plants. Plant healthy seeds. Plant mosaic-resistant varieties. Keep perennial weeds out of the garden. Control aphids and cucumber beetles with insecticidal soap or a light horticultural oil spray. Do not work with plants when they are wet.
Scientific name: a member of the family Tobamoviridae and belongs to the genus Tobamovirus, which is a plant pathogenic virus.
Description: Fungus disease that lives in soil and plant debris. Encouraged by low soil moisture and high humidity.
Damage: Gray, white, or brown velvety mold grows on surfaces of leaves and young stems. Mold spreads to the whole plant. Leaves may yellow and curl then the plant may wither and die.
Spread: Overwinters in plant debris, also in apple and plum buds. Spores are spread by water and wind. Found throughout North America.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Remove and destroy infected plants and keep the garden clean of plant debris and weeds. Allow space between plants for air circulation. Rotate crops. Disinfect garden tools clean; use one part bleach to four parts water solution. Spray or dust with sulfur or copper-based fungicide every 7 days.
Scientific name: Podosphaera xanthii and Erysiphe cichoracearum
Root rot disease
Root rot
Susceptible plants: Beans, carrots, corn, peas.
Description: Fungus disease lives in the soil and affects the plant vascular system.
Damage. Leaves are yellow and lower stems wither. Plants grow unhealthy. Roots covered with mold. Plants do not respond to water and fertilizer.
Spread: Fungus lives in the soil. It can be spread with infected soil and by water. Clean tools after use.
Prevention and controls: Remove and destroy infected plants. Plant in well-drained soil. Water less frequently but for longer periods so that water reaches deep in the soil. Rotate crops. Raise beds if the soil is too wet. Control harmful nematodes with beneficial nematodes.
Description: Fungus disease causes scab-like growth in cucumbers, potatoes, watermelons, peaches, and other fruits.
Damage: Dark, sunken, or water-soaked spots on vegetable leaves that result in wilt. Stems can develop cankers. Fruits develop gray, sunken spots. Potatoes develop brown, rough, irregular spots or lesions. Dark, greenish spots appear on half-grown apricots and peaches.
Spread: Scab over-winters in garden debris and soil. It is transmitted to plants by the wind. Cool, humid weather encourages spread. Scab is found throughout North America.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Rotate crops. Remove and destroy infected vegetable plants. Keep the garden free of plant debris. For fruit trees, use sulfur spray or dust 2 to 3 weeks after petals drop.
Description: Sunscald is an environmental disorder caused by too much exposure to the sun especially during hot, dry weather.
Damage: Large, irregular, paper-like white spots on fruit after prolonged exposure to the sun. White or reddish spots may develop on leaves. Dark molds may grow on scalded areas. Sunscald can occur when leaves drop due to unrelated diseases or environmental disorders.
Prevention and controls: Control diseases that cause leaves to drop exposing fruit or stems and trunks to the sun. Plant varieties resistant to diseases which can result in leaf drop. Plant varieties with heavy foliage. Fertilize and water properly.
Scientific name: Sunscald, a noninfectious disease of pepper and tomato, is caused by sudden exposure of the fruit to intense direct sunlight and is most serious during periods of extreme heat.
Description: Fungal infection of vascular tissues causing wilting. Soil-dwelling fungus infects plants through plant roots.
Damage: Leaves and stems turn yellow. Plants wilt. Stems turn brown. Plant growth is stunted, and yields are reduced.
Spread: Verticillium wilt lives in the soil and overwinters in plant debris. It can spread during cultivation or by running water. Perennial weeds can host verticillium wilt and transmit it to crops. Fungus develops during cool, humid weather.
Prevention and controls: Plant disease-resistant varieties. Practice 4-year rotation. Use a sulfur fungicide every 7 to 10 days to control disease.
Description: Disease caused by mycoplasmas bacteria.
Damage: Leaves turn yellow, then brown, then drop. The plant becomes stunted. Yields are reduced.
Spread: Mycoplasmas overwinter in weeds and other perennial plants. The disease is spread by leafhoppers.
Prevention and Control: Yellows can not be cured. Remove and destroy infected plants. Keep weeds which host leafhoppers cut. Control leafhoppers with diatomaceous earth, insecticidal soap, liquid rotenone or pyrethrum, or horticultural spray oil.
Scientific name: Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. conglutinans
Thinning hair and excess hair shedding are some of the common hair problems that people face. Air pollution, coupled with stress, are some inevitable factors that make your hair suffer. While stress leads to the problem, hair shedding can add to the stress as well, which makes things even more complicated. What if we tell you that there’s one quick remedy that might work wonders for your hair? Turns out, onion serum is great for hair growth.
Studies have shown that onion can help you get thick and long hair. While there are many products available in the market, making it at home can be good for you. The key ingredient here is onion serum.
Try this onion serum that can work wonders for hair growth. Image courtesy: Adobe Stock
How does onion serum work for hair growth?
The key ingredient in onion serum is onion extract, which contains several nutrients that help in hair growth. It is rich in sulfur, antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that are good for hair growth and overall hair health. Onion serum will help nourish hair follicles, strengthen your hair, and even improve blood circulation to the scalp. Let’s look at the benefits of onion serum for hair in detail:
1. Reduces hair fall
The first step to improving hair health is reducing hair fall. Loaded with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, onion serum can help ward off infections and reduce hair loss. It also helps tackle problems such as dandruff or scalp infections. It also strengthens the hair roots, which helps reduce hair fall and breakage.
2. Adds shine to your hair
Using onion serum regularly helps increase hair shine and make your hair lustrous and beautiful. It also contains properties that help improve the health of your hair shaft, making it look smoother and more lustrous.
3. Promotes a healthy scalp
A healthy scalp manifests healthy hair and applying onion serum can help you do that. It contains antimicrobial properties that help keep the scalp clean and free from bacteria and fungus. Plus, it helps reduce scalp problems like dandruff and itchiness. Applying onion serum can help maintain a healthy scalp for hair growth.
4. Helps in hair growth
As mentioned, onion extract is rich in sulfur, essential for the production of collagen – a protein required to stimulate hair growth. It also helps nourish hair follicles, improve blood circulation to the scalp, and stimulate hair roots – all of which help in hair growth.
Here’s how to use onion serum for hair growth. Image courtesy: Adobe stock
How to prepare onion serum for hair at home?
Here’s a hassle-free way to prepare onion serum for hair growth at home.
1 medium-sized onion
2 tablespoon coconut oil
1 tablespoon castor oil
Essential oil of your choice
Method
1. Peel the onion and cut it into pieces. 2. Blend chopped onions in a blender to make a smooth puree. 3. Extract the juice from the onion juice using a cotton cloth or a fine mesh strainer. Squeeze out as much juice as possible. 4. Take a small bowl and pour the juice into it. Add coconut oil, castor oil, and a few drops of essential oil for fragrance. 5. Mix it well and transfer the mixture to another clean container. 6. Apply the serum directly to your scalp using your fingers or a dropper. 7. Gently massage the serum into your scalp for a few minutes to increase circulation. 8. Once you have applied the serum to your scalp, run your fingers through the length of your hair to spread the serum. 9. Leave the serum on your scalp and hair for about 30 minutes before rinsing it off with normal water. 10. Use mild shampoo to remove the onion smell. 11. Use the serum twice every week to stimulate hair growth.
If you’re convinced that onion serum might work for your hair, make sure you do a patch test before applying it all over your scalp and hair. Also, don’t forget to check with your doctor to avoid any complications.
Summer is upon us and so is the holiday season. One of the best things about summer vacation is taking a break from all the hustle and bustle of the daily grind. Nothing beats the excitement of finally getting time to go on a travel that you would enjoy like it’s your last day or lying on the couch all day until it’s necessary. The endless fun may make you think “I’m on vacation. What’s the harm?” but the vacation weight can become harder to shed than imagine. While we cannot incorporate a heavy workout, a simple holiday workout may be able to help you stay fit on your vacation. Plus, no regrets afterward!
Fitness trainer Shwetambari Shetty recently took to her Instagram to share a quick holiday workout that can help you feel the heat, maintain muscle mass and burn calories.
Quick holiday workout to keep vacation weight at bay
You can try this holiday workout in the comfort of your home and even on vacations.
Set 1
This is a set of three exercises that focus on strengthening the body and improving its balance. Do three rounds of these exercises to feel the burn.
Air squats are a great exercise that helps strengthen the body and improve its balance. This exercise targets the glutes, quads, thighs, and hamstrings. They also help strengthen your core and work on your core.
A great exercise to build core strength and agility. This one exercise is actually a total-body workout that helps stabilizes your body.
The high knees exercise develops lower body endurance and strength. It helps burn calories, enhance coordination, and strengthen the abdominal muscles. It also improves cardiovascular endurance.
This high-knee exercise should be a part of your holiday workout. Image courtesy: Shutterstock
Set 2
This set also comprises of three exercises that focus on your lower body and abdomen. The fitness trainer recommends doing at least three rounds of this set.
Tricep dips work on all three muscles of your triceps and help tone your upper body. It helps build strength in your arms, shoulders, and chest. Also known as bench dips, these are touted to be one of the best exercises for building muscles.
20 Bulgarian split squats
This one is a lower-body workout that helps tone the leg muscles, including the quads, hamstrings, glutes, and calves. Additionally, it is a one-leg exercise that works extremely hard to keep you balanced.
One of the best exercises for weight loss, jumping jacks is an exercise that helps burn belly fat and get rid of chubby arms and legs. It also boosts the metabolism which helps you burn fat and lose weight by helping you burn a lot of calories.
Jumping Jacks may be the perfect holiday exercise for the whole body! Image courtesy: Shutterstock
She writes that it may seem like easy sets but when you do it for 30 minutes, you will feel the burn. So, what are you waiting for? Make these exercises a part of your holiday workout today to keep your weight in check.
Anger is our number one self-revealing emotion. And it mobilizes us for one thing, and one thing only – a fight.
It’s important to know that anger points directly at the status of our Core Value. It’s ultimately a cry of powerlessness, and the more reactive we become, the more powerless we feel.
Power? It’s the ability to act in our long-term best interests. Responsibility gives us the power to make our lives better, while blame renders us powerless.
The Role of compassion
Getting to where we need to go in this piece is a learning progression. So let’s first take a look at Stosny’s take on compassion…
More important than love because love without compassion is controlling, possessive, even dangerous
A sympathetic understanding of our Core Hurts and those of others
Loving others because it makes us feel worthy of love
Recognizing our Core Value and that of others, even when we don’t like present behavior or perspectives
Motivation to do the right thing
Not the same as forgiveness or condoning offenses
Not the same as reinstating relationships
Compassion has great healing power and protects us from Core Hurts. And keep in mind, the more we hurt, the harder it is to feel compassion.
Finally, compassion requires assertiveness – standing up for our rights and feelings. And we need to become comfortable with it because compassion ultimately defuses anger.
What is Core Value?
The next component is Core Value. It’s our deepest experience of self and it’s the foundation of our personal security, well-being, self-esteem, competence, creativity, and power.
When we’re in touch with our Core Values we can do no wrong. And when the impulse to control or harm arrives, we can bet the farm our Core Value has flattened.
“It wasn’t easy, and I have to keep after it, but I’ve learned to respect and value myself.”
The self-statement from Stosny…
I am worthy of respect, value, and compassion, whether or not I get them from others. If I don’t get them from others, it is necessary to feel more worthy, not less. It is necessary to affirm my own deep value as a unique person (child of God). I respect and value myself. I have compassion for my hurt. I have compassion for the hurt of others. I trust myself to act in my best interests and in the best interests of loved ones.
That’s a keeper, don’t you think?
What is Core Hurts?
Next in our learning progression are Core Hurts. Feeling…
Disregarded
Unimportant
Accused
Guilty
Devalued
Rejected
Powerless
Inadequate/Unlovable
Okay, things are coming together now. When Core Hurts are active a quick drop in Core Value takes place. And whether or not we realize it, many of us learned early on to protect ourselves from Core Hurts – Core Value hits – by using some form of anger, aggression, or resentment.
Any wonder why Core Hurts trigger anger?
Bottom line: The motivation to avoid or numb Core Hurts generates all harmful behavior.
HEALS
Now that we have the pieces in place, let’s get after relief with HEALS. Here’s how to intervene when anger slaps us upside the head…
Healing: When we first feel angry, visualize the word “heals” in bright lights. If it’s being triggered by someone, picture “heal” written across their face.
Explain to ourselves the deepest Core Hurt that’s causing the problem.
Apply self-compassion. Access our Core Value by asking ourselves if we’re unimportant, not valuable, or unlovable because of an external event or someone’s behavior. If need be, take an inventory of what makes our life worth living – good deeds we’ve done, loving relationships, or admirable personal values.
Love ourselves.
Solve the problem. Once we’re more calm and relaxed, it’ll be easier to address the conflict that’s generating the anger.
HEALS takes us beyond anger management techniques to an automatic regulation of anger and resentment. And that generates power.
With repetition, HEALS builds a conditioned response to increasing self-value whenever resentment or anger occurs. And since HEALS repetition strengthens Core values, it makes the defensive use of anger and resentment unnecessary.
By the way, to get to the point where HEALS comes automatically when anger strikes, Stosny prescribes 750 repetitions over four to six weeks.
Fruit trees are a crucial part of many agricultural systems, providing a variety of fruits and nuts that are consumed around the world. While it is possible to grow fruit trees from seed, many growers opt to graft trees instead.
Grafting involves attaching a piece of one plant to another, allowing the two to grow together as one. This technique has been used for centuries to propagate and hybridize fruit trees, resulting in a wide range of unique and desirable varieties.
In this context, this article will explore the reasons why many fruit trees must be grafted, the benefits of grafting, challenges associated with growing fruit trees from seed, the types of fruit trees commonly grafted, and how grafting allows growers to create new and unique varieties of fruit trees.
Why are some fruit trees grafted instead of planted by seed?
As a seasoned backyard fruit tree grower, I have found that grafting is a valuable technique that allows me to create a wide range of unique and desirable fruit tree varieties. While it is possible to grow fruit trees from seed, there are several reasons why grafting is a more common practice among growers.
First and foremost, grafting allows for the propagation of fruit trees that are true to type. This means that the fruit produced by the grafted tree will be identical to that of the parent tree. When fruit trees are grown from seed, there is a great deal of genetic variation, which can lead to inconsistent fruit quality and other undesirable traits. By grafting, growers can ensure that their trees will produce high-quality fruit that is consistent from year to year.
Another reason why fruit trees are commonly grafted is that it allows for the creation of hybridized varieties. By grafting a piece of one plant onto another, growers can combine desirable traits from two different trees to create a new variety that possesses the best qualities of both. For example, a grower might graft a piece of a peach tree onto a plum tree, resulting in a tree that produces peaches with the sweetness of a peach and the hardiness of a plum.
Grafting also allows growers to control the size and shape of their fruit trees. By grafting onto a rootstock that is known to produce trees of a certain size or shape, growers can ensure that their trees will fit into a specific space and be easier to manage. This can be particularly useful for backyard growers who have limited space and want to maximize their yield.
In addition, grafting can help to improve the hardiness and disease resistance of fruit trees. By grafting onto a rootstock that is resistant to certain diseases or pests, growers can help to protect their trees and ensure that they remain healthy and productive for many years to come.
Finally, grafting is often a faster and more reliable way to propagate fruit trees than growing from seed. When growing from seed, it can take several years for a tree to reach maturity and begin producing fruit. In contrast, grafted trees can begin producing fruit in as little as one or two years, making them a more practical option for commercial growers who need to maximize their yield.
How Does Grafting Benefit the Growth and Development of Fruit Trees?
Grafting can greatly benefit the growth and development of fruit trees. When done correctly, grafting can help to improve tree health, increase fruit yield, and even create new and unique varieties of fruit.
One of the primary benefits of grafting is the ability to improve tree health. When a fruit tree is grafted, the scion (or cutting) from a healthy tree is attached to the rootstock (or lower part) of a separate tree. This allows the tree to benefit from the strong root system of the rootstock, while also receiving the desired traits and characteristics of the scion. For example, if you want a tree that produces fruit early in the season, you may want to choose a rootstock that promotes early fruiting. Alternatively, if you want a tree that is resistant to certain diseases or pests, you may want to choose a rootstock that is known for its disease resistance. The result is a tree that is both strong and productive, with fewer health problems than it would have had if grown from seed.
Another benefit of grafting is increased fruit yield. When fruit trees are grafted, they often produce more fruit than they would if grown from seed. This is because the scion is chosen for its desirable fruit characteristics, such as size, flavor, and color. By grafting this scion onto a rootstock with a strong root system, the tree is able to produce more fruit of higher quality.
Grafting also allows growers to create new and unique varieties of fruit trees. This is because grafting allows for the hybridization of different fruit tree varieties, resulting in trees that exhibit the best traits of both parents. For example, you could graft a scion from a peach tree onto a rootstock from a plum tree, creating a hybrid tree that produces fruit with a unique flavor and texture.
Growing fruit trees from seed vs grafting
I know first-hand the challenges that come with growing fruit trees from seed. While it is possible to grow fruit trees from seed, it can be a slow and unpredictable process. Additionally, there is a risk that the resulting tree will not produce fruit that is of the same quality or characteristics as the parent plant. That’s why grafting is such a valuable technique for fruit tree growers.
One of the biggest challenges associated with growing fruit trees from seed is the long waiting period before the tree produces fruit. It can take several years for a fruit tree grown from seed to reach maturity and begin producing fruit. During this time, the grower must invest a significant amount of time and resources into caring for the tree, with no guarantee of a successful outcome. With grafting, however, the grower can use a scion from a mature tree that is already producing high-quality fruit, and attach it to a rootstock that will allow the tree to grow and produce fruit much more quickly.
Another challenge with growing fruit trees from seed is the potential for genetic variation. When a fruit tree is grown from seed, it may not inherit all of the desirable traits of the parent plant, such as disease resistance or fruit quality. This can result in a tree that produces fruit of lower quality or quantity, or a tree that is more susceptible to pests or diseases. Grafting allows growers to bypass these genetic variations and ensure that the resulting tree will produce high-quality fruit that is consistent with the parent plant.
Furthermore, certain fruit trees may not grow well in certain regions due to climate or soil conditions. By grafting, growers can attach a scion from a tree that is well-suited to a particular region onto a rootstock that is also well-suited to that region. This allows the tree to thrive and produce high-quality fruit, despite the challenging growing conditions.
Grafting can also help to overcome challenges associated with disease and pest resistance. By using a rootstock that is resistant to a particular disease or pest, growers can ensure that the resulting tree will also be resistant. This is particularly important for fruit trees that are prone to diseases such as apple scab or pests such as borers, which can severely damage or kill a tree.
Pluots are a cross between a plum and an apricot, accomplished through grafting. Daderot, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Why are Certain Types of Fruit Trees More Commonly Grafted Than Others?
I have had the opportunity to experiment with a variety of grafting techniques over the years. From my experience, certain types of fruit trees are more commonly grafted than others, and for good reason.
One of the most commonly grafted fruit trees is the apple tree. This is because apple trees do not produce true-to-type offspring from seed, meaning that the apple tree grown from seed may not have the same desirable characteristics as its parent tree. This is where grafting comes in handy, allowing growers to create new apple tree varieties by grafting a scion from a desirable apple tree onto a rootstock. Grafting also allows growers to combine different apple varieties to create hybridized trees with desirable characteristics, such as disease resistance or improved flavor profiles. This has led to varieties like the Honeycrisp apple, which many people around the world enjoy today.
Another fruit tree commonly grafted is the citrus tree. Citrus trees are often grafted onto rootstocks because they are susceptible to soil-borne diseases like citrus greening. By grafting a citrus scion onto a disease-resistant rootstock, growers can ensure that their citrus tree will thrive and produce high-quality fruit. Additionally, grafting allows growers to create new citrus varieties that have improved flavor, texture, and disease resistance.
Stone fruit trees, such as peaches and plums, are also commonly grafted. This is because stone fruit trees are susceptible to soil-borne diseases, which can cause significant damage to the tree and reduce fruit yields. Grafting allows growers to create stone fruit trees that are more resistant to these diseases, resulting in healthier trees and more abundant fruit production.
In addition to disease resistance, grafting can also improve the overall growth and development of fruit trees. For example, some rootstocks are known to improve the vigor and yield of grafted fruit trees, while others can help to control the size of the tree. By selecting the right rootstock for a particular fruit tree variety, growers can ensure that their trees grow and develop properly, resulting in better fruit production and healthier trees.
What Are Some Examples of Grafted Trees?
One example of a hybrid fruit tree created through grafting is the Pluot. This delectable fruit is a cross between a plum and an apricot, and it was first created by the horticulturist Floyd Zaiger in the 1980s. The Pluot is a prime example of how grafting allows growers to create something entirely new and unique, as it combines the sweetness of a plum with the tanginess of an apricot. Today, there are many different varieties of Pluots available, each with its own unique flavor and texture.
Another example of a hybrid fruit tree created through grafting is the Nectaplum. As its name suggests, this fruit is a cross between a nectarine and a plum, and it was first created by Zaiger in the 1990s. The Nectaplum combines the juicy sweetness of a nectarine with the firm texture of a plum, resulting in a truly unique and delicious fruit.
Grafting also allows growers to create trees that are resistant to disease and pests. For example, the Liberty Apple was created through grafting as a response to the apple scab disease, which was devastating apple crops throughout the eastern United States in the early 20th century. The Liberty Apple is a cross between the Macoun apple and the Purdue apple, and it is resistant to apple scabs and other common apple diseases.
One more example of a hybrid fruit tree created through grafting is the Pluerry. This fruit is a cross between a plum and a cherry, and it was created by Zaiger in the early 2000s. The Pluerry combines the sweetness of a plum with the tartness of a cherry, resulting in a fruit that is both unique and delicious.
In addition to creating new and unique fruit varieties, grafting also allows growers to preserve rare and heirloom fruit trees. For example, the Gravenstein apple is a variety that has been grown in California for over 200 years. However, the tree is susceptible to disease and pests, and it is no longer commercially viable. Through grafting, growers are able to preserve the Gravenstein apple tree, ensuring that this historic variety remains available for future generations to enjoy.
The scion is the part of the fruit tree that will produce the desired fruit. It’s important to choose a healthy scion that is free of any diseases or pests. The best time to take a scion is in the winter when the tree is dormant. Cut the scion from the tree with a sharp, clean knife, making sure to take a piece that is about 6 inches long and has several buds.
Step 2: Choose your rootstock
The rootstock is the part of the fruit tree that will provide the root system and support for the scion. The rootstock should be chosen based on the desired traits of the tree, such as disease resistance, size, and vigor. It’s important to choose a rootstock that is compatible with the scion. The best time to graft a fruit tree is in the spring when the tree is starting to come out of dormancy.
Step 3: Prepare the scion and rootstock
Using a clean, sharp knife, make a diagonal cut at the bottom of the scion and the top of the rootstock. The cuts should be made at an angle of about 45 degrees. The goal is to create a surface area where the two pieces will connect and grow together. Make sure the cuts are clean and straight, as any ragged edges can inhibit growth.
Step 4: Connect the scion to the rootstock
Align the cuts of the scion and rootstock together and bind them tightly with grafting tape or rubber bands. The goal is to create a tight seal between the two pieces. The scion and rootstock should be aligned so that the cambium layer of each piece lines up. The cambium layer is the thin layer of tissue just below the bark where the exchange of nutrients occurs.
Step 5: Cover the graft
Cover the graft with grafting wax or sealant to protect the exposed areas from moisture and insects. The wax or sealant will also help to hold the two pieces together as they grow together.
Step 6: Care for the grafted tree
The grafted tree should be placed in a warm, humid location out of direct sunlight. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. After a few weeks, the graft should have taken and the scion should begin to produce new growth. Once the new growth is about 6 inches long, cut off the top of the rootstock just above the graft to encourage the scion to become the main stem of the tree.
And there you have it, my simple yet effective method for grafting fruit trees. With a little practice and patience, you too can start growing your own unique and desirable varieties of fruit trees. Remember to choose healthy scions and rootstocks, make clean cuts, and seal the graft tightly with grafting tape or rubber bands. With these tips, your grafted fruit tree will thrive and produce delicious fruits for years to come.
Author’s Bio: John Hammond is a seasoned backyard fruit tree grower with a degree in horticulture. Hailing from the Midwest, John’s love for gardening and cultivating fruit trees began at a young age. He is an expert in his field and his advice is highly sought-after by fellow gardeners and fruit tree enthusiasts. John continues to push the boundaries of fruit tree cultivation and has recently started experimenting with new grafting techniques.
In the heat of the moment, sometimes it becomes difficult to know how rough you are being until a hickey or love bite pops up the next morning! If you have ended up with a purplish small mark on your skin after a night of canoodling, you know what we’re talking about. The bruise, mostly seen on the neck and arms, is caused by kissing or sucking of skin, which may lead to broken blood vessels under the skin. If you are searched for how to get rid of hickey and landed here, you know what this mark of passion is all about! Let us help you with some expert tips.
People try various ways to hide a hickey. Some put layers of foundation to conceal it or even wear a scarf in sweltering heat so that nobody notices. But a hickey needs more attention than that in order to heal. Health Shots reached out to celebrity dermatologist Dr Apratim Goel to know effective ways to get rid of a hickey.
How to get rid of hickeys quickly?
The purple mark you see after a passionate session is nothing but a bruise called a hickey or a love bite. It develops due to the pressure from the suction leading to the breakdown of tiny blood vessels, causing extravasation or pooling of blood locally. When red blood cells oxidize, they form purple patches. Though there is no way to make a hickey go away overnight, you can try these methods suggested by Dr. Goel for quicker healing.
Home remedies for hickeys that actually work! Image courtesy: Shutterstock
1. Put some ice on it
As mentioned, a hickey is nothing but a bruise, so a cold compress can help. Take some ice and rub it on the area. It will move and break up the coagulated blood, which is what you want if you want to get rid of the hickey.
2. Followed by a warm compress
After 48 hours of using a cold compress, give warm compression with a warm towel. It will increase the blood supply to the area and quicken the reabsorption of the blood, explains the dermatologist.
3. Use medication
When natural remedies don’t work, you turn to science for help. We are talking about taking medication (recommended by your doctor) that is used to treat bruises. Next, you can use creams like arnica creams or thrombophob creams, which people generally use for bruises. However, don’t buy the medication without consulting a doctor.
Home remedies for hickeys: Know what works and what doesn’t
There are several videos going around that claim that you can get rid of a hickey in a jiffy. We wish it was possible, but it’s not. Love bites or bruises don’t go away immediately and take a few days to go away. Unfortunately, you would need a temporary solution to conceal it. Meanwhile, you can try the above-mentioned methods to get rid of hickeys. But don’t believe everything you see on social media. Having said that, here are the internet hacks for hickeys that may not work.
1. Aloe vera gel
While aloe vera gel is a potent ingredient loaded with the goodness of nutrients, it will not help you get rid of hickeys. Dr. Goel says applying aloe vera gel on love bites may not remove the mark or heal the bruise. However, it does have hydrating benefits and can be used as a moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated and help it heal faster.
Does aloe vera help you get rid of hickeys? Let’s find out. Image courtesy: Adobe stock
2. Peppermint spray
Another hack doing rounds on the internet is the peppermint spray but this one is again a failure. Dr. Goel shares that peppermint does not cause the blood to flow and reduce the love bite. However, rubbing peppermint oil repeatedly can lead to skin irritation which may cause more skin reactions. I would advise you to skip this hack.
3. Banana peel hack
This is another trend that you must have come across on the internet. Yes, banana peel contains antioxidants and offers soothing benefits but it does not remove the bruise mark. It helps give your skin a soothing effect.
Use banana peel to get rid of hickeys. Image courtesy: Shutterstock
4. Other similar hacks that don’t work
As per the expert, similar to peppermint, it is advisable to skip the application of toothpaste, alcohol, and any such ingredients as they can cause skin reactions and lead to problems.
Note: Whether you have a hickey or not, never use a home remedy without doing a patch test first and consulting a doctor.
